Although liquids cannot penetrate Corian countertops, it is best to wipe up spills as they occur. Generally, a damp microfiber cloth used with a standard household kitchen spray should remove most stains. For most residues, all you need to clean your Corian countertops is warm soapy water, ammonia-based household cleaner, or a dedicated countertop cleaner. Do avoid window cleaners, however, as they can leave a waxy build-up that dulls the surface. Always clean using a circular motion. Film will build up on countertops if water is left to dry on the surface. This film will dull the countertop surface, making the finish appear blotchy and uneven. To prevent film build-up, it is very important to wipe the countertop completely dry immediately after spills and cleaning. Some colors of Corian may require more frequent cleaning to maintain a uniform finish. Darker colors tend to require more attention than lighter colors. Over time, even with proper care, your countertop will acquire a sheen. Dark colors may show light scratches more readily. But rest assured — restoring your countertops to their original glory is an easy process. In most cases, Corian can be repaired if damaged. Be sure to follow these guidelines to help you prevent any permanent damage to your Corian countertop. While Corian is heat resistant, as with all countertop materials, it is important to minimize direct heat exposure to protect your surface and investment. Always use heat trivets or pads when placing hot objects on any surface. Always use a trivet under portable heat-generating appliances, such as a toaster oven. For more information on caring for your Corian countertops, visit https://www.corian.com/use-care-62

In most cases, you only need to use a clean, damp, nonabrasive cotton cloth and a mild liquid detergent or household cleaner. Rinse with clean water, using a clean, non-abrasive cotton cloth. Do not flood the laminate, especially near seams, since water can penetrate and cause the substrate to swell. Dry the surface with a soft, clean, non-abrasive cotton cloth.

Use mild soap and water, or a neutral cleaner such as Method Daily Cleaner or StoneTech Revitalizer (available for purchase at Urban Granite). Clean up spills promptly. All natural stone is porous, and is therefore not stain proof. Oils and acids are particularly damaging to stone surfaces, so make sure to wipe up any spills from cooking oils, citrus drinks, or alcohol. Quartz is heat resistant to a certain degree and for a certain amount of time. To avoid any damages due to heat, do not put hot pots directly on the surface. Use pot holders and mats. Quartz is highly scratch resistant but not scratch proof. Please ensure that you use a cutting board to protect your countertops. For more information, please check your product manufacturer’s website. Quartz is a man-made product and does not require any sealing.

Use mild soap and water, or a neutral cleaner such as Method Daily Cleaner or StoneTech Revitalizer (available for purchase at Urban Granite). Clean up spills promptly. All natural stone is porous, and is therefore not stain proof. Oils and acids are particularly damaging to stone surfaces, so make sure to wipe any spills from cooking oils, citrus drinks, or alcohol. Do not use products that are highly alkaline, acidic, ammoniated, or contain bleach or abrasive agents. These materials may degrade the sealer, and abrasive products may be harmful to the diamond polished surface. Granite and Quartzite are scratch resistant but not scratch proof. Please ensure that you use a cutting board to protect your countertops. Natural stone surfaces must be sealed to prevent and minimize staining. We recommend using Stone Tech Heavy Duty sealer (available for purchase at Urban Granite). When liquids quickly absorb into the stone rather than beading on top surface, it is time to reseal. Light colored materials require more frequent sealing as they tend to be more porous.

Clean up spills right away, especially for acidic spills like tomatoes, citrus fruits, and even vinegar. (Never use vinegar to clean a marble countertop.) Use ceramic or stone bake ware to avoid rust spots. Seal the marble surface as recommended by your fabricator. Your marble is sealed properly when water beads form droplets on the surface. When water stops beading, it’s time to re-seal. Never use abrasive cleaners. All marble should ever need is a soft, damp cloth and pH neutral cleaner. Don’t let wet dishes, glasses, or water sit on the countertop for any length of time. In other words, use coasters on marble countertops and rugs on marble floors. Use trivets and pot holders to avoid scorching. Never place hot pots or pans on a marble top. When we use hot pots or pans on natural stone countertops we ignore the fact that we are excessively heating just one small section, directly under the pan, whereas the surrounding area of the countertop may be very cold. If we do it repeatedly we are unknowingly causing thermal stress inside the stone. If you have a marble vanity, place felt pads under cosmetic and toiletry containers to avoid scratching. Remember that marble is not granite. It’s softer, so it will stain and wear more easily.

If you want to make your soapstone counter darker, you can apply mineral oil on top. Applying mineral oil to your soapstone will help it develop a dark patina and will enhance the natural aging process of the stone. It can also be left untreated if you prefer. Any common household cleaner can be used to clean your soapstone counter. If you have used mineral oil on your soapstone, we do recommend you use regular soap and water because harsher treatments may dissolve the mineral oil treatment faster, resulting in more coats of mineral oil to be applied. Soapstone is non-porous and does not need to be sealed.

While vinegar is a common ingredient in many homemade floor cleaners, it shouldn’t be used on certain household surfaces because it can cause damage. Fortunately, luxury vinyl flooring isn’t one of those surfaces. In fact, apple cider vinegar makes an excellent vinyl floor cleaner. The acidity in the vinegar can remove grime and dirt without leaving behind buildup and residue like soap can. Just make sure you don’t use full-strength vinegar to clean your floors. It can dull the finish, and you have no way of polishing vinyl flooring to bring back the shine. To make homemade floor cleaner using vinegar, simply mix a cup of apple cider vinegar with a gallon of water. You can then use a damp mop to clean your floor. Be sure to frequently rinse your mop with hot water while you’re cleaning. If you’re looking to disinfect and clean your floors at the same time, you can use white vinegar instead. If your floors are especially grimy, add a few drops of liquid dishwashing soap to your vinegar-water mixture before you mop them. Then go back over your floors a second time with just the water and vinegar. Lastly, if you’re looking to add a little shine to your floors, a few drops of baby oil in the water and vinegar cleaning solution will do the trick. The best way to prevent scratches or scuffs from ending up on your luxury vinyl floors to begin with is to sweep or vacuum your floors every day to remove any dirt or debris that could cause damage. However, if you do notice a scratch or scuff on your floor, you can try several options to remove it. If it’s a small mark, some light buffing might do the trick. You can also try a spot repair kit to remove the mark. If you have a slightly larger scuff or scratch, consider applying a vinyl floor sealer after you wash your floor to hide the mark. One trick that many people swear by is to spear a tennis ball on the end of a stick and rub it over the scuff to make it disappear. You can also try applying some jojoba oil or WD-40 lubricant on a towel and rubbing it over the scuff until it goes away. For severe damage, such as a deep scratch, cut, gouge, or dent, you’ll likely need to replace the plank. Likewise, if you have a deep scuff mark because something wore away the protective wear layer — such as the bottom of a chair leg rubbing back and forth over the same spot — it’s usually better to replace the damaged piece.

Surface finishes like polyurethane require only simple care. Just dustmop, sweep, or vacuum regularly. Always follow the manufacturer’s cleaning recommendations if known. When cleaning no longer restores shine, recoat the floor with a surface finish. The frequency of recoating depends on the amount of traffic. Never wax a surface-finished floor, and never use vinyl or tile floor care products on any wood floor. If your hardwood floors have been finished in a wax or penetrating stain, you can dustmop or vacuum regularly, and use a buffer to maintain the shine. Always follow the manufacturer’s cleaning recommendations if known. If buffing no longer restores shine, you may need to rewax. If so, apply a cleaner and liquid wax specifically for wood floors. Apply the wax evenly, allow the floor to dry, and buff to the desired luster. Depending on traffic, a properly maintained wood floor should need waxing once or twice a year. Be careful not to over-wax a wood floor. If the floor dulls, try buffing instead. Avoid wax buildup under furniture and other low-traffic areas by applying wax half as often as in higher-traffic areas. If the wax finish is discolored or has dirt build-up, use a combination liquid cleaner/wax made specifically for wood flooring. Make sure it is solvent rather than water-based. Spread the liquid cleaner/wax with a cloth or fine steel wool and rub gently to remove grime and old wax. Wipe the floor clean, let it dry for about 20 minutes, and then buff. Never use sheet vinyl or tile floor care products on wood floors. And never use self-polishing acrylic waxes on wood floors. These waxes cause wood to become slippery and dull. In this case, the floor must be sanded and refinished. Never damp mop a waxed floor. When cleaning a surface-finished floor, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. You may generally use a dampened (near dry) mop to maintain a wood floor; however excessive moisture will cause damage. Standing water can dull the finish, damage the wood, and leave a discoloring residue. If water spills on a wood floor, immediately wipe it up with a clean cloth. Place mats and throw rugs at doorways to help protect wood floors from grit, dirt and sand. Place felt pads under furniture legs and vacuum/dust your wood floor regularly.

Carpet cleaning is just like exercise! If you get into a routine and keep it up, you will see great results and feel better for it. And understanding the right way to clean carpet will help you save time by doing it correctly the first time with products that do the job right from the start. Contact our friends at Titan Flooring for assistance in choosing the right carpet cleaning products for you. Below are three simple steps to keeping your carpet clean and looking great: 1. Vacuum at the right frequency with a CRI-approved vacuum. 2. Clean spots and spills quickly with products that do not damage the carpet or cause it to resoil quicker. 3. Professionally deep clean your carpets every 12 to 18 months to remove embedded dirt and grime. Preventing dirt and grime from getting on the carpet in the first place is a great way to start keeping it clean. The following helpful hints can stop dirt in its tracks: Use mats — Outdoor and indoor mats or runners can reduce the amount of dirt that enters the house. Take off your shoes — You can save wear and tear on carpet by asking everyone to take off his or her shoes before entering your home. Change your air filters — Change air filters in your heating and air-conditioning systems as recommended by the manufacturer’s directions. The more dust and particles removed by the filter, the less that fall on the carpet.

Immediately wipe up spills and messes. Use pH neutral cleaners and soapless detergents for daily cleaning. Rinse the stone and grout thoroughly to remove any remaining cleaner. Agitate grout joints with a soft bristled brush to loosen debris. Thoroughly rinse, dry, and polish cleaned areas. Acidic cleaners will etch and remove the polished surfaces from calcium based stones such as marble, travertine, and limestone. Make sure you read carefully the label of the cleaner. Sometimes acidic ingredients are hidden behind the word “natural.” Acidic cleaners will eventually erode the grout in the joints making cleaning and maintenance more problematic. This is especially true if using acid cleaners on sanded grout installations. Colored grout pigment can be permanently damaged by using acidic cleaners. This is especially true if acidic cleaners are used on a daily basis. Stone can be very porous and may be susceptible to staining, making the sealing process extremely important. Sealers do not make stone water or stainproof, but instead, increase its reaction time to contaminants, allowing you to clean up before the stone’s surface is penetrated. Sealing stone before and after grouting is advisable since fine grout colour particles can stain stones. Penetrating Sealer · Usually has no surface sheen · Maintains natural colour of stone · Penetrates stone to form a barrier just below the surface, making it more resistant to stains Enhancing Sealer · Type of penetrating sealer · Darkens and enriches the natural colours of the stone, often significantly changing its appearance · Most enhancers must be buffed off the surface after application to prevent excess sealer from clotting and tracking (enhancers cannot be removed and should be used with caution.) Topical Sealer · Adds a semi or high gloss finish, enhancing the natural colours of the stone · Creates a surface coating to help repel oil and water · Becomes the “traffic” layer and is subject to wear, therefore requiring regular maintenance

Use only non-oil-based neutral cleaners, non-acidic, neutral PH cleaners. Wipe glazed wall tiles periodically using a cloth or sponge dampened with a non-oil-based household cleaner. Vacuum floor tiles regularly to remove dirt and other gritty particles, then damp mop or sponge with an all-purpose, non-oil-based cleaner. Do not use ammonia, as it will discolor grout. Sweep or vacuum the floor free of debris (if sweeping, use a soft natural bristle broom). Use the recommended amount of general purpose neutralizing cleaner to clean the surface. Rinse with clean water or a mild solution of neutral cleaner, suspend and remove all soft residues. Remove excess water. Once the tile has been cleaned and dried (shortly after installation), grout joints should be treated with a penetrating sealer if required. Consult grout manufacturers’ recommendations. Epoxy grouts do not require a sealer. Most porcelain and ceramic tile is virtually impervious and does not need to be sealed (some polished porcelains need sealing due to pores being opened during the polishing process). If you are unsure, sprinkle water on the tile surface—if it beads and is not absorbed in, it does not need to be sealed. Neglected or heavily trafficked tile may require more intensive cleaning. Clean glazed wall tiles with a scouring powder or all-purpose cleaner applied to a non-metallic pad. Rinse and wipe dry. For floor tiles, use a commercial tile cleaner, or apply a strong solution of all-purpose, non-oil- based cleaner or scouring powder paste. Let stand for five minutes, brush and scrub. Then rinse with clean water and wipe dry. Soap scum, mildew stains and hard-water deposits may be removed from the tile using appropriate cleaning products. Follow manufactures recommendations. Use all-purpose, non-oil- based cleaners. Allow to stand for 5 minutes before lightly scrubbing with a sponge. Rinse Well

Curtains Avoid exposure to intense sunlight. The rays from the sun can cause fabrics to fade and disintegrate. We recommend that you line and interline your drapery to help prevent this, but this will not eliminate the damage from sunlight totally. If you have strong and constant exposure, consider some form of protection that will block or reflect the sun. This might be a separate lining behind the treatment, or a blind or shade to protect the fabrics. Failure to protect the fabric may result in claims for fading being rejected. Creasing Allow time for any wrinkles to smooth out, the fabrics will continue to relax and naturally drop as they hang. In regards to linen and velvet fabrics, please be aware that creases may be permanent and this is the nature of the fabric. Yarns/Fibres Fabrics are constructed with various natural yarns and synthetic fibres. Often there are slubs and natural weave irregularities which enhance the final appearance of the fabric. It should be noted that this is not a defect and is an inherent characteristic of the fabric. Silk Silk does not have a high colour fastness and therefore must be protected from sunlight. We recommend interlining and the added protection of blinds. Also the slubs, knots and irregular horizontal banding which occur are all natural characteristics of the silk yarn. Shrinkage Please be aware that up to 5% shrinkage may occur due to variations in atmospheric conditions whilst in situ at the window. There is sufficient fabric available within the hems to enable any necessary adjustment in length. Regular Care Give your curtains a gentle shaking as they are drawn. This will prevent dust and dirt from lodging in the fibres. Every month, vacuum any accumulated dust from the surface of your treatments. Use a clean soft brush attachment for this, with the suction power slightly reduced. Watch for any large accumulations that might be spread by the brush or loose trims and embellishments. Blinds Here are some general guidelines for any type of fabric window treatment. Dust or vacuum both sides of the shade or drape. Pay close attention to the top of the blinds as creases and pleats collect more dust. Immediately spot clean any soiled area. Do not use strong detergents or spot removers as they can fade the color and weaken the fibers. For more information on care and maintenance of fabric shades, curtains and drapes, click here. For more information on aluminum, vinyl, painted wood and faux wood, click here.

In order to keep your art looking it’s best, use the following steps to clean your Art Glass: Spray a small amount of non-ammonia glass cleaner on a microfiber cloth and wipe in a circular motion. Then with a dry section of the cloth, wipe the glass surface dry to avoid water marks. If a microfiber cloth is not available, use a clean, lint-free cotton cloth. Do not spray cleaner directly onto glass. Excess glass cleaner can seep into the frame and damage the artwork.

Clean your product using a mild soap (such as dish soap) and water. Do not use heavy, abrasive, bleach-based, or ammoniated cleansers. Use of such cleansers will wear down the wax protection and result in less stain resistance. We do not recommend use of most natural cleansers (which are often citrus based), as the cleaning agent is typically highly acidic and can damage natural materials. We recommend using a mild, non-abrasive, non-ammoniated soap for daily cleaning. Stone soap may also be used for ongoing maintenance and conditioning.

As a rich natural resource, wood has a certain uniqueness. This uniqueness causes no two pieces of wood to be the same. It is not uncommon to discover contrasts, knots and grain variations in your new piece of furniture. In order to protect your acquisition for many years to come, we recommend you do the following: Never use glass cleaners, detergents, liquid waxes or aerosols on the furniture. We recommend cleaning with water and mild soap using a soft cloth followed by a dry cloth. When the table is being used, always cover it with a table cloth or use placemats. It is important to remember that putting anything hot directly on the table can leave permanent markings; always use coasters. Remove liquid or spills from furniture immediately. Never place your furniture where it will be exposed to direct sunlight for long periods of time. Place your furniture away from any heat source and a/c unit. Never place electrical appliances, pots or hot plates on surfaces. Maintain relative humidity at 40%

LEATHER Protect from direct sunlight to prevent drying out and fading. For best possible results, wipe clean with leather cleaner and condition the surface 2-3 times a year with a leather conditioner. FAUX LEATHER Wipe clean with a damp cloth and a mild non-abrasive dish detergent. Wipe dry with a clean cloth.

Care and Maintenance of your area rug will depend on the material it is made with. If you are unsure of the material of your area rug, please contact us for more information. 100% WOOL Blot stains right away. To clean, use a mild soap mixed with equal parts white vinegar and water. It is normal for new wool rugs to shed. Vacuum on a regular basis with beater bar off, and shedding will reduce over time. Periodic professional cleaning is recommended. VISCOSE / VISCOSE BLEND, SILK, SILK & TENCEL Blot stains right away. Professional cleaning is recommended for stain removal or periodic cleaning care. Vacuum with beater bar off. 100% COTTON Blot stains right away. Use a dry-cleaning powder to clean large cotton rugs, and check the labels for small cotton rugs to see if they can be machine washed in cold water on a gentle cycle. Vacuum on a regular basis with beater bar off. POLYESTER, POLYPROPYLENE Blot stains right away. To clean, use a mild soap mixed with equal parts white vinegar and water. Vacuum on a regular basis with beater bar off. SHAG For smaller sizes, shake rug to loosen dirt and dust that can build up within higher pile. Use hand-held or upholstery attachment to vacuum shag rugs. NATURALS Blot stains right away. To clean, use mild soapy water and blot dry. Use fan or dryer to speed up the drying process—natural materials should not be exposed to too much moisture. Vacuum on a regular basis with beater bar off, occasionally vacuuming under the rug to remove dirt and dust that can sift through the weave onto the floor.

Avoid sitting on the edges of the cushions or on the arms as this can add excess pressure to the seams and cause distortion to the padding and fabric. Be aware that sharp objects such as buckles, rings and even the claws of your pets can tear and scratch the furniture. All cushions require regular and ongoing maintenance. The easiest methods are to regularly ‘plump’ and change cushions from one side of the piece to the other, or simply flip them over to distribute wear. If this is not done their appearance and comfort level may deteriorate. Some fabrics may naturally ‘creep’ or ‘slide’ over time and with use. Flipping will minimize this, however sometimes it is necessary to unzip the cushion and pull or rub the fabric back into place. Some flattening or loss of resiliency will occur with cushions seat and back cushions as a result of normal use and aging, this is not covered under the warranty. Cushions over time will conform to the shape of the user and such slight changes are expected and are not considered a manufacturing defect. Feather & Synthetic Down Feather-filled cushions, especially when used as base cushions, require regular ‘plumping’ and flipping. If this is not done their appearance and comfort level may deteriorate. Foam-Wrapped Feather & Synthetic Down Feather-filled ‘wraps’ or ‘feathered layers’ have inserts filled with feather wrapped around a foam core. This is one of the best quality cushion fillings in the industry and requires minimal maintenance. Foam-Wrapped Fibre These cushions are manufactured using only the best soy foam with a light fibre wrap applied to further improve comfort and appearance. This cushion provides a more tailored look and requires the least amount of maintenance, although cushions still require plumping and turning to even out wear and prolong their durability. Colour Fastness No fabric is 100 percent colourfast, but fading can be prevented if the correct precautions are followed. Dyed fabrics, particularly those dyed in bright colours, are most susceptible to fading. Upholstery should not be exposed to direct sunlight for prolonged periods of time as this may result in the fabric degrading or fading. South facing rooms are exposed to the most sunlight. Constant exposure to the direct rays of the sun can break down the fabric fibers, causing them to become brittle, increasing the risk of a rip or tear during cleaning. Pilling Fibers in some clothing can transfer pills to the furniture. Pilling is not a defect and does not reflect the quality of the fabric. Pilling can easily be removed using battery operated pilling devices.

GENERAL FABRIC CARE INFORMATION It can be normal for new fabric to pill when it first starts getting used/sat on. We recommend you invest in a fabric shaver to remove any piling. If the piling continues after using the fabric shaver, contact us for assistance. 1. Blot (do not rub) liquid spills immediately. 2. Pick up (do not wipe or rub) semi-solid spills (such as butter) immediately, carefully using the edge of a knife. 3. Not sure what caused a spot? Try clean, cool water first. Do not start out with hot water, which will set blood and other substances. Do not start out with detergents or solvents that may remove fabric colour. Before using any cleaning agent, test a small amount on a hidden area of the fabric to be sure it is colourfast. 4. If cool water does not remove the spot, try the appropriate solution listed below: • Diluted ammonia or hydrogen peroxide: 1 tablespoon of household ammonia or peroxide to 1 cup of cold water. • Diluted detergent: 1 teaspoon mild laundry detergent to 1 cup of lukewarm water. • Diluted bleach: 1 tablespoon liquid bleach to 1 cup of cold water. MINIMIZING WEAR AND PREVENTING STAINS: Keep upholstered furniture away from direct sunlight. Rotate furniture in the room to redistribute wear patterns. Keep flowers and foliage from contact with upholstery. Rotate cushions and pillows weekly to redistribute wear. Vacuum upholstered pieces weekly with crevice tool extension to prevent abrasion from crumbs, dust, etc. Do not leave newspapers or other printed materials lying on upholstery. Take special care with cigarettes, candles, etc. around upholstered pieces. Take special care to avoid damage from possible splashes or spills when using household products such as nail polish remover near upholstery. Cover or remove upholstered pieces when working with paint, bleach, or other detrimental commercial products in the home. PERFORMANCE FABRIC Most liquids simply roll off of performance fabrics, or they can be quickly blotted off the surface with a dry towel or sponge. The spot cleaning method of stain removal can be used for most light to medium stains, such as coffee, red wine, crayon, and ketchup. Be careful to brush lightly since fibers can be broken or matted during the cleaning process. CLEANING STEPS FOR PERFORMANCE FABRIC 1. Before spot cleaning, blot up liquids on the surface with a clean, soft towel and brush off any loose dirt. Prepare a cleaning solution of 1/4 tsp mild, enzyme detergent, such as Tide®, Woolite® or Dawn® dishwashing liquid, per 1 cup of lukewarm water. 2. Apply the cleaning solution using a misting spray bottle. Do NOT oversaturate when applying the cleaning solution. 3. Work the solution into the affected area by lightly scrubbing the area with a sponge or soft bristle brush. Make sure to work from the outside of the stain inward so as not to spread the stain and rinse your sponge or brush frequently. 4. Allow cleaning solution to soak into the fabric. 5. Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap residues, as residues will attract dirt. Blot excess moisture with a clean, soft towel or sponge. Repeat steps 3-5 as needed. Allow fabric to air dry. Use light steam to remove wrinkles. Do NOT iron. Do NOT dry clean. The use of bleach is NOT recommended. Some stains, such as permanent marker, lipstick and nail polish may not be completely removable. Colour Fastness No fabric is 100 percent colourfast, but fading can be prevented if the correct precautions are followed. Dyed fabrics, particularly those dyed in bright colours, are most susceptible to fading. Upholstery should not be exposed to direct sunlight for prolonged periods of time as this may result in the fabric degrading or fading. South facing rooms are exposed to the most sunlight. Constant exposure to the direct rays of the sun can break down the fabric fibers, causing them to become brittle, increasing the risk of a rip or tear during cleaning. Pilling Fibers in some clothing can transfer pills to the furniture. Pilling is not a defect and does not reflect the quality of the fabric. Pilling can easily be removed using battery operated pilling devices.

Lighting fixtures can vary significantly in materials used during manufacturing. To clean most fixtures, wipe with a warm damp cloth and follow up with a dry soft cloth. Glass should never be placed in a dishwasher; hand cleaning is always recommended. Each fixture will have a notice of maximum wattage permitted. Note you cannot exceed the wattage identified. Should you have any additional questions, please contact our friends at Park Lighting directly at 780-434-9600